Showing posts with label Indian Chicken Biryani. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Indian Chicken Biryani. Show all posts

3.05.2013

Indian Chicken Biryani for a Crowd


Not satisfied with the chicken biryani served at Indian restaurants in Maine, Sudha and Venu crafted their method to make biryani just how they remember it at home in Andhra Pradesh, India. See below for the full story, recipe, and how to photos.

photo: Lindsay Sterling


See How to Do It


Indian Chicken Biryani

Fresh Indian cinnamon bark is different than what you find at a U.S. supermarket.


Here are just some (!) of the spices that will go into chicken biryani.


Indian chili powder is very different from what's called "chili powder" in the U.S. supermarket. Sudha's chili powder is a different color, orange-red, and much spicier. It's made out of a different variety of chilis, likely the Gunthur Sannam chili that is a major crop in Andhra Pradesh, the Indian State where Sudha is from. This chili powder she is holding is made from chilis from her family's farm.


The photo (below) is of a spice called mace. Mace is the dried casing of the nutmeg nut.


For chicken biryani, you need one-inch chunks of bone-in chicken. Venu shows us how to do it. Get a cleaver (or a super heavy, sharp knife) and whack perpendicular to the chicken leg and thigh bones.



To the chicken marinade, you'll add (pictured clockwise below from top right): chili powder, salt, lime, ginger-garlic paste, turmeric (center) and plain yogurt (top left).



Then add the contents of this package (below): about a half a cup of ten more ground up spices.


Mix up the chicken and marinate over night. The next day, cut up green Thai chilis, tomato and onion.


Saute whole spices in the pan that will cook the chicken and a sauce.



After a couple minutes, add the split chilis.



When the chili's are part golden brown,
then add onions and cook until soft and starting to brown.



Add the tomatoes and cook five minutes.




Then mix in the marinated chicken (below).


Cook covered, stirring every once in a while, for about twenty minutes until chicken is cooked throughout and the onions and tomatoes break down into a sauce.


Shallow fry onions in oil until golden.


Saute whole spices and chilis in butter to flavor the rice. 


Add ginger-garlic paste (below).




Then add rice you've rinsed 3 or 4 times (below).




 Mix the rice, butter and spices.


Add 1.25 cups of water for every 1 cup rice - less than you normally would. The rice ends up only half cooked.


Make layers of rice, chicken and sauce, cashews, fried onions and sprinkles of orange red food coloring (below).







You'll make about 3 layers of each ingredient. 

This (below) is the food coloring she used. It's a powder. You use a dash with a tablespoon of water and sprinkle the colored water with your fingers on each layer to make red speckles.





 Seal the edges of the pan tightly with tinfoil (below) so no moisture escapes in the oven.


While the biryani is baking, make the riata (below).





After twenty minutes, pull the biryani out of the oven and mix it all up. 



Then decorate the top with hardboiled eggs (below).


Serve with lime wedges, sliced raw onion and raita on the table. 



Photos by Lindsay Sterling. Use by permission only.

The Story



Hot Stuff

How much spice is humanly possible?

By Lindsay Sterling

Sudha’s display of spices looked like a painter’s pallet of India: turmeric yellow, brown cloves, white salt, brilliant orange-red chili powder—not the maroon stuff you find at the supermarket. Sudha and her husband, Venu, were teaching me how to make their favorite dish: chicken biryani. It’s a mixture of spiced rice, bone-in chicken, sauce and cashews, baked together and served with raw sliced onion, lime wedges, hard-boiled eggs and a cooling yogurt sauce called raita.
“Usually, if I prepare biryani, my friends will come over,” Said Sudha. Venu added, “When I’m home and Sudha’s cooking, by the time it’s done, half is gone. She knows this. She adds more chicken now from the start.”
When the couple was giving me a lesson on tandoori chicken for a story last fall (Portland Phoenix, Oct. 17, 2012) I couldn’t believe my eyes when they put a whole quarter cup of spices into a bowl of 12 drumsticks. Here they were again, adding more spice than I thought reasonable for a meal. A half of a cup of ground spices went into the biryani marinade, including salt, red chili, dried plums with pits, fenugreek seeds, dill seeds, turmeric, cinnamon, black pepper, cumin, nigella seeds, bay leaf, fennel, brown cardamom, ginger, garlic, clove, black cumin, and dried papaya powder.
Then they proceeded to add 14 fresh super-hot green chilis in the cooking process. I’m still trying to figure out what species these chilis were. I’m guessing they’re birds-eye chilis which are twenty times hotter than a jalapeno. They also might be green Guntur Sannam chilis which are native to Sudha and Venu’s home state of Andhra Pradesh. Sudha insisted that they’re just called “green chilis.”
 Then they added another quarter cup of whole dried spices: bay leaves, black cardamom pods, black cumin, cinnamon bark pieces, green cardamom pods, star anise, cloves and mace. Mace is the dried casing of the nutmeg nut. Each piece looks like a thumb-sized dried jellyfish.
Part of me doesn’t know why my eyes were popping out of my head. Everyone knows Indian food is spicy. Duh, there are a lot of spices in it. But when cooking this dish at home, I had to physically force my hand to put in as much spice as Sudha had. Put. In. The spice, Lindsay. Put it in. Do it. What was I scared of? Pain? Death? Extreme flavor?
One research study in 1980 found that 3 pounds of dried really spicy chili powder eaten at once by one 150-pound person can be deadly. Well, there was nowhere near that amount in the biryani so imminent death wasn’t the issue. Sudha and Venu said while we were eating that they like spiciness of the food to bring them to “the verge of pain.” “I do, too,” I said. But here was my fear: what if the same amount of spice could send an Indian to the blissful verge of pain but an American over the edge to writhe in a pool of sweat and tears?
The chicken biryani they served me was awesome: spicy, yet balanced, invigorating, exciting, right on the verge of pain. Perfect! But then I asked them for the truth. Sheepishly, not wanting to hurt my feelings, they gave it to me. If I hadn’t been their guest, they would have used 25 green chilis instead of just 14. Even though I told them I like 5-star-spicy? Even so. After all, I was American.

copyright Lindsay Sterling 2013

The Recipe - Indian Chicken Biryani



Indian Chicken Biryani for a Crowd

As Sudha Chalicham and Venu Chaganti, from Andhra Pradesh, India, taught Lindsay Sterling in Scarborough, ME January 2013

Serves 18
Cooking Time: 24 hours
Active Time: 4 Hours

Please read entire recipe before beginning to cook. Each section has its own ingredient list. Print out a complete grocery list here to make shopping easier.

Step 1: Marinate Chicken
(About 30 min.)

5 lb. chicken bone-in leg quarters (legs and thighs)
5 Tbsp ginger-garlic paste*
1 lime, juice of
1/2 tsp turmeric
2 tsp super hot Indian chili powder
2 Tbsp plain yogurt
2 tsp salt
1 package Shan brand "Special Bombay Biryani"

*Ginger-garlic paste:
3" peeled ginger, peeled
1 1/2 heads garlic, peeled
1/2 tsp salt
1/2 tsp turmeric
water

Using paper towels for grips, peel the skin off the chicken. With a cleaver, whack chicken perpendicular to bone to make pieces that are about 1”x2”. (Alternatively, you can ask the butcher to do this. You can just as easily peel the skin off the smaller cut pieces after they’re cut.). Pat the chicken dry with a paper towel (if the chicken is wet, the marinade will slide right off). Wash everything that touched the raw chicken. 

Make the ginger garlic paste by blending in a food processor equal parts ginger and garlic with salt and turmeric, adding just enough water to turn the ingredients into a paste. Save 2 tsp of this for putting into the rice tomorrow.

In a large mixing bowl, make the marinade by mixing the garlic ginger paste, lime, turmeric, Indian chili powder, yogurt, salt, and one package Shan brand "Special Bombay Biryani" spice mixture. Massage this marinade into the chicken with your hands. Wash hands, then cover the chicken and let it marinate in the fridge for 6 to 24 hours.

Step 2: Cook Chicken and Sauce
(About 35 min.)

1/4 cup vegetable oil
Biryani chicken spices:
      2 whole mace pieces
      6 green cardamom pods
      10 whole cloves
      1 1/2 whole star anise
      8 small pieces cinnamon bark
      2 black cardamom pods
      1/2 tsp black cumin
      5 bay leaves
10 super hot green chilis
1 1/2 large white onion
1 tsp salt
2 tomatoes
(5 lb. marinated chicken pieces in the fridge)

Slice chilis in half lengthwise. Slice onions thinly and tomatoes into wedges. Heat oil on high in large sauté pan or wok with lid. Add Biryani chicken spices and let cook for two minutes. Then add chilis. When they’re browned a little, add onions and salt and stir (the salt helps the onions break down faster). Once onions are soft and slightly brown, add tomatoes. Stir and cover. After about five minutes when everything is looking a little brown, add chicken and stir. Cover and cook for 20 minutes, stirring every ten minutes or so, until the sauce is thick and chicken is cooked but not falling off the bone. Turn off heat.

Step 3: Prepare Rice
(About 30 min.)

8 cups basmati rice
3 Tbsp butter
Biryani rice spices:
      4 green cardamom pods
      7 cloves
      2 pieces whole mace
      1 star anise
      5 small pieces cinnamon
      1/2 tsp black cumin
      1 black cardamom pod
      4 bay leaves
2 tsp ginger-garlic paste
4 super hot green chilis
1 1/2 tsp salt
large rice cooker or 16x12x3” aluminum baking pan
10 cups water

In a large bowl near sink, cover rice with water and massage with hands to loosen extra starchy powder. Drain and repeat until water runs clear, 4-5 times. (This helps the rice not stick together when you cook it).

If you have a large rice cooker:

If you have a rice cooker that can handle 8 American cups of rice (FYI - some Japanese models have “cups” that are 3/4 of an American cup measurement), remove the rice cooker pan and put it on the stove. Sauté the butter in the bottom of the rice cooker pot. Add all the spices and let cook one minute. Add chilis and ginger garlic paste and cook another minute. Stir in the rice and let cook for two minutes. Add 1 1/2 tsp salt. Transfer the rice cooker pot back into the rice cooker, add 10 cups water, and press “cook.”

If you don’t have a large rice cooker:

If you don’t have a rice cooker, preheat the oven to 350, boil 10 cups water in a pot on the stove and get a 16”x12”x3” aluminum baking dish ready. Sauté the butter in a large soup pot. Add all the spices and let cook one minute. Add chilis and ginger garlic paste and cook another minute. Stir in the rice and let cook for two minutes. Add 1 1/2 tsp salt. Transfer the rice into the baking dish, add the boiling 10 cups of water, seal the baking dish closed with tinfoil so no steam escapes, and put in the oven for 15-20 minutes.

Note: You’ll notice this is much less water than you would normally use for this amount of rice. We’re doing this because we are only partly cooking the rice now. In Step 5, it will get more moisture when it is baking with the chicken and sauce in the oven.

Step 4: Prepare Additional Items
(About 30 min.)

9 eggs
1/4 white onion
4 tsp vegetable oil
pinch red-orange food color powder (999 brand or Shwad brand)
1 Tbsp water
1/2 cup raw cashews

Hardboil eggs. (Cover eggs in a small sauce pot. Bring to a boil, set timer to 14 minutes and turn to low heat. When timer goes off, drain hot water and cover eggs with cold water and let sit until cool enough to peel). Slice white onion into ? inch strips. Saute in oil on high heat until really brown but not burned. Turn off heat. Mix a dash of food coloring with 1 Tbsp water in a small dish. Put raw cashews in a small dish.

Step 5: Assemble and Bake Biryani
(About 45 min.)

Huge aluminum baking dish (20”x12”x3”)
Wide aluminum foil

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Taste chicken and sauce. Add salt and stir. Taste again. You want it to be almost mildly over salted. This flavor will be spread out over a lot of rice.

Next put the following components on the counter next to the largest aluminum baking pan for the layering process: the browned onions, rice, chicken with sauce, cashews, and red food coloring. Each one of these components will be a layer in the dish. Drizzle a little oil on the bottom of the backing pan and spread out with a brush. Add rice so you have an even layer of rice about 1 inch thick on the bottom. Then add a “layer” of chicken and sauce. Use about 1/3 of what you have, which will not be a solid layer, but intermittent pieces of chicken and sauce spread out. Next layer about 1/3rd of the browned onions, and put about 6 cashews evenly throughout. Dip your fingers into the food coloring and sprinkle red dots on the layer.

Repeat this layering process until all your ingredients are gone. Cover the pan with aluminum foil and press the edges as tightly as possible so little to no steam leaves the pan in the oven. Bake for thirty minutes.

Step 6: Finishing Touches
(About 25 min.)

For garnish:
1/2 white onion + 1 white onion
2 limes

For Raita:
1 tomato fine dice
2 small handfuls cilantro, chopped
4 cups plain yogurt
2-3 cups water
2 tsp salt
2 green hot chili peppers, sliced into thin circles

Slice 1/2 white onion across so you have whole circles of onion. Display on a plate with lime wedges – 1 for each person and place on table. Mix the rest of the ingredients together in a serving bowl to make raita, a cool yogurt sauce that goes will with spicy food. Place on table.

When the biryani is done baking, mix so that the color turns uniformly gold. Taste the biryani and mix in salt if it could use it, perhaps 1/2 tsp. Decorate the top of the biryani with hard boiled eggs, whole or cut in half so each person can have a piece. 


Copyright Lindsay Sterling 2012

The Grocery List - Indian Chicken Biryani


Indian Chicken Biryani Grocery List

From supermarket:

5 lb. chicken bone-in leg quarters (legs and thighs)
3" peeled ginger, peeled
3 limes
3 tomatoes
4 large white onion
2 small handfuls cilantro, chopped
1 1/2 heads garlic, peeled
7 tsp salt
1/2 tsp turmeric
1/2 tsp turmeric
4 cups plus 2 Tbsp plain yogurt
1/4 cup plus 4tsp vegetable oil
3 Tbsp butter
9 eggs
Huge aluminum baking dish (20”x12”x3”)
extra large rice cooker or 16x12x3” aluminum baking pan
Extra wide aluminum foil

From Indian market*:

1 package Shan brand "Special Bombay Biryani"
2 tsp super hot Indian chili powder
4 whole mace pieces
10 green cardamom pods
17 whole cloves
2 1/2 whole star anise
13 pieces Indian cinnamon bark (small, thin 1” pieces)
3 black cardamom pods
1 tsp black cumin
5 bay leaves
4 bay leaves
pinch red-orange food color powder (999 brand or Shwad brand)
16 super hot Thai green chilis (size of pinky finger, very hot)
1/2 cup raw cashews
8 cups basmati rice

*Indian Market Info


Sudha and her Indian friends often buy for each other when one of them goes to an Indian market in Boston or New York. The spices, she says, are freshest there, which makes sense because of the high volume of shoppers. Here are three stores to try. Find the nearest Indian market by state here. Or try ordering ingredients online.

Subzi Mandi
1518 Oak Tree Rd. #B
Iselin, NJ
732-603-0588

Masala Mahal
798 Main Street
South Portland, ME
207-699-5555

Waltham India Grocery
337 Moody St. 
Waltham, MA
781-899-6016




copyright Lindsay Sterling 2012